Amed

Amed is a string of fishing villages on Bali's northeast coast, roughly three hours from Ngurah Rai International Airport by car. The coast stretches for about 14 kilometres from Amed village through Jemeluk, Bunutan, Lipah, Lean, and Selang. Mount Agung rises behind the coastline, and the sea in front holds some of the most accessible coral reefs in Indonesia.

The area feels different from the rest of Bali. The road is narrow, the coast is rocky, and the sand is volcanic black rather than white. There are no beach clubs, no mall-style shopping, and hardly any nightlife. What Amed has instead is easy beach-entry snorkeling, good shore diving, and a slower pace of life that has stayed remarkably intact despite growing visitor numbers.

Diving and snorkeling

Amed sits within the Coral Triangle, the global centre of marine biodiversity. The water is warm, the visibility is high during the dry season, and most of the best sites are accessible directly from the shore. In many places, all you need is a mask, fins, and a short walk into the water.

USAT Liberty shipwreck

The USAT Liberty is one of the main reasons many travellers come to east Bali. The 120-metre American cargo ship was torpedoed by a Japanese submarine in 1942 and beached on the Tulamben shore. In 1963, the eruption of Mount Agung pushed the wreck into the water, where it now rests on a black-sand slope about 30 metres from the beach.

The bow starts at around 5 metres deep, which means snorkellers can see the upper structure clearly on a calm day. The stern sits near 30 metres. The wreck is encrusted with coral and is home to large schools of fish, bumphead parrotfish, trevally, and the occasional reef shark. It is a shore dive with no boat required. Two-tank guided dives from Amed-based operators usually cost between $75 and $100 USD, including gear and transport. The best time to dive is sunrise, before day-trippers from south Bali arrive.

Jemeluk Bay

Jemeluk Bay is Amed's main snorkeling bay and the most developed part of the coast. The bay is crescent-shaped, which helps keep the water calm. A shallow coral garden starts just a few metres from the beach and drops into a wall around 40 metres offshore. There is also an underwater temple statue garden at a depth of 2 to 12 metres, which is one of the more photogenic spots in Amed.

Snorkel gear rental from the beach costs around 50,000 IDR per day. The water is glassy before 10:00 AM, and the current picks up in the afternoon. Turtles are common here and are usually visible during the morning snorkel sessions.

Japanese shipwreck

The Japanese shipwreck off Banyuning Beach is a WWII patrol boat sitting in shallow water about 20 metres from shore. The wreck rests at a depth of 6 to 12 metres, which makes it accessible to snorkellers and freedivers without scuba gear. The hull is encrusted with coral and home to a dense population of reef fish, nudibranchs, and macro life. Water shoes are recommended for the approach over the black stones.

Sunrise and Mount Agung views

Amed faces east, which means sunrise is the main event. On clear mornings, Mount Agung rises directly behind the coastline, framed by the sea and the jukung outrigger boats pulled up on the black sand. The best vantage points are the Jemeluk viewpoint, the cliff road between Jemeluk and Lipah, and the beach at Bunutan. Clouds usually roll in by 10:00 AM. Several local fishermen offer sunrise boat trips, typically departing around 5:30 AM and costing 250,000 to 350,000 IDR per boat.

Where to stay

Accommodation in Amed is concentrated along the coastal road. Most options are small hotels, homestays, and villas rather than large resorts, and prices are generally lower than in the south.

• Jemeluk Bay: The most convenient base. Walking distance to snorkeling, restaurants, and warungs. Best for first-time visitors.
• Lipah: Quieter than Jemeluk with several boutique dive resorts. Good for divers who want easy access to multiple sites.
• Bunutan: The most photographed beach at sunrise, with fewer accommodation options. Best for photographers and those with a scooter.
• Lean and Selang: The quietest sections at the southern end. Close to the Japanese shipwreck. Best for total seclusion.

Nearby attractions

Practical tips

Best time to visit

The dry season, from April to October, brings the best diving and snorkeling conditions. The sea is calm, visibility is often 20 metres or more, and the skies are clear. July and August are the busiest months. November to March brings occasional rough seas and afternoon rain, but also fewer visitors and lower accommodation prices.

Getting around

The coastal road runs the full length of Amed and is easy to navigate on a scooter. Scooter rental costs 70,000 to 100,000 IDR per day. A private driver from the airport usually costs around 500,000 to 700,000 IDR for the three-hour trip. The distance between Jemeluk and Selang is about 7 kilometres, and most of the restaurants, dive shops, and accommodations are strung along this road.

What to know before you go

• Amed is a three-hour drive from the airport. Book a driver in advance or rent a scooter for the trip.
• ATM access is limited. There are a few ATMs in Amed village but they sometimes run out of cash on weekends. Bring enough rupiah.
• The beaches are volcanic black sand and pebbles, not white sand. Water shoes make a significant difference for beach entry.
• Wi-Fi varies by accommodation. Some areas have slow or unreliable connections. Download offline maps before arrival.
• There are no major beach clubs or nightlife venues. Restaurants close by 10 PM in most areas.
• Do not stand on the coral. The reefs are fragile and take years to recover from damage.